Update parts of Umami that are falling behind

Problem/Motivation

Umami does a good job of showing what's possible with Drupal core and no custom modules (except default content), however it still has some limitations:

1. There are a lot of template overrides and hard-coded assumptions about fields, we can probably just use display mode config/layouts and CSS. An if we can't that's a problem we should fix in the rest of core so we can fix in Umami.

2. It's falling behind on some core features - i.e. the responsive card listing of recipes on tags, doesn't use views responsive grid

Steps to reproduce

Proposed resolution

Remaining tasks

• Old issue, but correctly identifying some of the problems: #2938911: Umami theme hardcodes too many assumptions about the install profile and site configuration
• #3425104: Umami views should use responsive grid
• #3426588: Overwhelming amount of messages when you install a multilingual site

User interface changes

API changes

Data model changes

Release notes snippet