theme_menu_link ignored?

I have a theme: foobar

I write:

function foobar_menu_link(array $vars) {
  dpm($vars);
}
function foobar_menu_link_alter($vars) {
  dpm($vars);
}

I get vars from the alter, but I get nothing from theme_menu_link. I've tried this several different ways and confirmed as much as I can think to confirm.
Anyone have any ideas why theme_menu_link would be ignored or not fire?

I have tried the targeted function as well, and it does not work either (eg: __menuname).